This 14k gold diamond winged insect brooch incorporates “en tremblant”—a Victorian jewelry design element that uses a spring mechanism to allow for movement within the piece. “En tremblant” means “to tremble,” an apt description of the shimmering motion of the piece, that was popular with the upperclass in Victorian era France, often used in tiaras and brooches. The spring can be seen in this piece when viewed from the side, as the bug hovers above the pin. The brooch contains a beautiful array of diamonds, rubies, and an emerald. The insect’s wings are encrusted with Rose Cut diamonds that vary in size and shape to perfectly fit within the wings—from tiny pointed diamonds at the tips to larger rounds and ovals in the wider parts of the wing. The stones are carefully chosen and create a mosaic that showcases a beautiful selection of antique diamonds. The brooch is 14k, but topped with silver on the wings to emphasize the whites of the diamonds. The thorax of the insect is a bezel set green cabochon emerald, and the eyes consist of bezel set rubies. This piece, which comes to life with en tremblant movement, is magical; it looks great on any blazer and makes for a little treasure that is special to own.
The brooch contains 40 natural antique Rose Cut diamonds that range from VS2-I in clarity and K-M in color. They are clear and sparkly, and catch the light nicely; the many different shapes throw off interesting faceted reflections. Rose Cuts are traditionally thinner stones, so it is harder to calculate their weight, but the piece contains at least 2.5 carats of diamonds. The brooch also contains two natural antique rubies and one natural antique emerald.
The piece acid tests as 14k. It measures 1 3/16” x 1 3/16” and weighs 7.85 grams.
Circa 1880’s.
