Kirsten's Corner

Russian 14K Gold Sapphire, Diamond, and Ruby Organic Brooch


This 14k gold Russian brooch has an organic form and wonderful texture that is reminiscent of a coral head . A beautiful patina adds to its elegance and the soft, abstract shape is unusual, making this a very special piece. An applied foliate form branch is accentuated by natural faceted ruby and sapphire cabochons, while rose cut diamonds are bead set to decorate the flower’s leaf. The craftsmanship of this piece is exquisite: the gems of the cabochons peak through the back of the brooch, which includes details that mirror the front of the piece, and the artistic quality of the design is absolutely stunning. 

Several hallmarks and maker’s mark can be found on the pin, which tell an interesting story about the brooch’s history. In 1922, the USSR was established, and is signified by the letter hammer and sickle hallmark for the USSR. The hammer and sickle is also a symbol of the proletariat and is emblematic of Communism. Alongside these marks of the transition of power from the Russian Revolution, the pin is marked with the makers mark “CB” and “56”, which the makers mark and gold standard for 14k.  The letter K for Kiev indicate the city the piece was made in. Stylistically this pin exhibits the work of a great master one that was most likely working for the pre revolutionary wealth before the establishment of the USSR. This brooch was made during a transitionary time period, right around the beginning of the revolution.  

Approximately 1 1/4” x 1” with a weight of 7 grams. The circular sapphire cabochon measures 3.5mm; the smaller sapphire is 3.3 x 4mm; and the ruby is 3.5 x 2.7mm. There are 8 small rose cut diamonds. 

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