Circa the 1780’s, this Portuguese ring is centuries old and a classic example of Georgian design and jewelry making techniques. The centerpiece of the ring is a banded agate cabochon, bezel set in sterling silver. It is surrounded by a halo of sparkling chrysoberyls in a bead setting that is a variation of the classic collet setting often seen in Georgian jewelry. The chrysoberyls are outlined by a row of elegant gold beading, similar to milgrain, that borders the ring. The agate has a beautiful pattern, with warm browns and white striping—a perfect complement to the rosy hue of the gold and the soft greenish glow of the chrysoberyls.
The jewelry techniques used in the design of this ring are evident and make this piece a time capsule into the 18th century. Silver has been brought carefully around the chrysoberyls to pull them together for a close fit; their alignment is slightly irregular in a way that displays their tight-knit placement and the classic Georgian process used for making this piece. Behind the chrysoberyl is a foil backing that enhances the sparkle of the stones. The banded agate makes a nice, soft dome that flows beautifully into the rest of the ring, and the translucence of the agate has depth and a subtle glow.
Chrysoberyl was a popular gemstone in Portugal during the late 18th century and early 19th century. It was mined in Brazil and brought back to Portugal on trade ships—often incorporated into both Brazilian and Portuguese Georgian jewelry. It was named from the Greek words “chrysos” and “berullos” which translates to “transparent gold,” an apt name for its greenish-yellow sparkle.
The larger dimensions of the ring make this a statement piece with real presence on the hand that extends along the finger. The face of the ring measures 1 5/8” x 1 3/8”. The banded agate plaque measures 1 3/16” x 7/8”. The chrysoberyls measure approximately 3.5 mm. The ring weighs 18.3 grams.
The ring’s band is 14k gold. The beaded outline is 10k gold. The piece is unmarked but acid tests as such. It is amazing that this piece has been around for so long. As to be expected, one of the stones has a small chip in it, which can only be found when looked for under a loop. There is minor scratching and a small dent on the bottom side of the ring. (One of the scratches appears to be an old gold test.) The scratches are hidden when the ring is worn.
Ring size 7 - 7.25.
