Kirsten's Corner

Fabergé 18K Gold Diamond Guilloche Enamel Locket


This handmade 18k gold, diamond, and guilloche enamel locket was designed by VICTOR MAYER for Fabergé. The cobalt blue enamel has stunning detail—it is transparent to reveal intricate engravings beneath the guilloche. The engravings feature a chevron pattern with an oval frame in the center, a motif that gives depth and variation to the enamel’s shades of cobalt blue. Along the oval frame, there are tiny gold details of flowers and crosses. Upon close examination, you can see that a clear enamel has been laid over the gold, a feat of craftsmanship that allows the blue and clear enamel to butt up against each other. In the center of the locket, there is a gold cross adorned with bead set natural diamonds—a traditional motif that is used in historic Fabergé jewelry. The locket opens up to hold two oval pictures. The locket is attached to an 18k gold bail that has a lovely split-design that can open on shut allowing it to clip onto a chain. Numbered as 27/200, this gorgeous locket is very limited in its creation and a rare find. 

Renown designer VICTOR MAYER was entrusted to create pieces using the Fabergé hallmark for two decades, and was appointed the sole Fabergé workmaster from 1989-2009. The pieces created during this time are marked with the letters “VM” and each individual piece is numbered.  VICTOR MAYER was founded in 1890, and the German company made Fabergé inspired egg pendants in the early 1900’s. Over the following century, the company gained a reputation as masters of enameling and guilloche engraving, and many of the most exclusive brands have trusted the company with the production of their most elegant pieces. VICTOR MAYER created many intricate and sophisticated jewels and Objets d’Art during their collaboration with Fabergé, some of which were included in the Fabergé exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum in 1996. 

The locket’s bail opens up, which allows the locket to clip onto thicker chains. It clicks shut in two different places, making it very secure. There are nine natural diamonds that measure 2 mm each. The diamonds are G-H in color, VS1 in clarity. They weigh .10 of a carat. 

The locket is marked on the back with the Fabergé and Victor Mayer maker’s marks, as well as 18k and the piece number 27/200. The locket measures 3/4” x 1 1/4” (with the bail, its height is 1 5/8”).  It weighs 15 grams. 

This piece comes with a lovely Fabergé box. 

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