Kirsten's Corner

Avant-Garde 14K Gold Russian Diamond and Ruby Pre-Revolutionary Bracelet


This 14k gold pre-revolutionary Russian bracelet consists of elongated streamlined geometric shapes with circular cutouts. The extremely beautiful design sense seen in this piece was a precursor to Russian Constructivist avant-garde. Linear cutouts bisect the oval links with a bezel set ruby in the center of each link. Small connecting links contain four bead set Rose Cut diamonds that stand out against the surrounding patina. The surface of the gold has a burnished matte finish that draws in the eye and looks stunning next to the deep red hue of the rubies.

An integrated box clasp fits seamlessly into the piece and is held securely in place with a safety chain and shepherd hook. The bracelet dates to around 1900-1910, the era of Faberge and some of the finest Russian jewelry ever made, and this piece is no exception.

The bracelet contains the maker’s mark “AW” and “56” for 14k gold. It also contains the letters “AP” in an oval frame for the assayer Aleksandr Romanov (Cyrillic AP), and the kokoshnik marks of a woman facing to the left.

There are eight natural antique round faceted rubies that measure 2.74 mm each for a total weight of 8.8 carats of rubies. There are 48 natural antique Rose Cut diamonds; they weigh approximately 1 carat.

The bracelet is 7 5/16” long and weighs 29.1 grams. Each of the eight links measures approximately 1”.

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