Kirsten's Corner

22K Gold Victorian Diamond Ruby and Emerald Curtain Pendant


 Circa 1840, this 22k gold medallion pendant is a treasure. Encrusted with colorful antique gemstones, the pendant contains a stunning array of hand cut diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. The pendant takes its shape from a coin, with a ribbed outside border and a curtain medallion inset into the piece. The stones are placed in a sweeping, curtain-like shape surrounded by a halo of rubies and diamonds . A cut star is hand engraved to house a Rose Cut diamond and its placement above the curtains feels biblical— a guiding star. Below it, an upside down flower boasts a large Old Mine Cut diamond. On the back of the pendant, the carved out settings of the border gemstones make an alternating pattern of geometric shapes that create a fascinating zigzag motif. The curtains and colors give this piece an incredible theatricality. 

At the top of the pendant, a scrolling foliate turns into a detailed bail. The necklace’s chain is also impressive: tiny hand made faceted belcher links catch the light beautifully. The entire necklace is 22k gold, giving it a gorgeous glow—with the exception of the clasp which is 18k. The gold has an acid wash finish that gives the piece a nice matte surface. 

All of the stones in the pendant are natural hand-cut antique gemstones. There is one 4.25 mm Old Mine Cut diamond, 14 2 mm Old Mine Cut diamonds, and 10 Rose Cut diamonds. The collection of diamonds are bright and lively. Combined total diamond weight is 1.5 carats. There are 14 1.5 mm rubies, two 3 x 3 mm rubies, and one 2 mm ruby for a total ruby weight of 1 carat. There are two 4.3 x 3.5 oval emeralds, for a total weight of .5 carats of emeralds. 

The piece pendant weighs 25.29 grams. The medallion measures 1 5/16” x 1 7/8”. The chain is 18” long. Unmarked but acid tests as 22k gold (clasp tests as 18k). 

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